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SOURCE: The second hand stops for a few seconds. It then
that is an EOL function, in other words an "End of Life" warning...the watch is telling you that the cell has become low and needs replacing, some movements have this function
Testimonial: "Thank you for the technical diagnosis. I will get the cell changed asap."
SOURCE: Bergen Enkheim Clock won't stop chiming. The
It sounds as though part of the mechanism that controls the chiming is jammed. This could be caused by dirt or wear.
I suggest you have the clock cleaned as a first step and ask if there is any sign of damage.
Testimonial: "Thank you very much for the advice *. ~"
SOURCE: The pendulum stopped swinging...the clock and
Hi
This clock short of needing a full service may simply be out of beat.
Taken from my web page located at:
http://antiqueclock.clockstop.com/CLOCK_BEAT.htm
"HOW TO PUT YOUR CLOCK IN BEAT"
-Included below is a 10-second sound <snip> of a clock both in and out of beat.
IN BEAT ////////\\\\ OUT OF BEAT
· Turn on your sound and click on the clocks above for a sound clip.
-One little known fact is that a clock does not have to be level to be in beat. I had a customer that had a mantel clock in an old farm house, it was brought in for repairs and sent back running great just one problem: I put the clock in beat on a level surface [a small problem] because the mantel it had set on for it's entire life was not level. I had to literally go to the house to put it in beat where it sat.
-I have often found most Grandfather or floor clocks are set up out of level and put in beat where they stand, This is fine.
-As I'm sure we now realize a clock must be in beat but not always level to function properly.
· Above is the verge with a slip clutch.
· Often found on Grandfather clocks and requires only a long swing to get it in beat.
-To get the clock on the right side in beat you would need to push the verge assembly to the left.
-If it must be bent to put it in beat, do it slightly, but don't bend any of the suspension parts.
R/ David
SOURCE: pendulum in beat but stops running after a few
CLOCK OILING TIPS
* NOTE: Many Master Clock Smiths and Hobbyists used many different oils and as many different techniques.
* It is only good sense to use only the best in quality when selecting clock oils and grease. A number of fine oils are made especially for clocks. The oil used should stay in place and not evaporate easily and have no tendency to gum or get sticky as it ages. Most clock oils meet these standards. [CAUTION: Never consider using non-clock lubricants, as they tend to not really work well in clocks. Some are too light and cause unnecessary bushings wear, while others are too thick or can evaporate, over time will gum up and stop the clock prematurely.]
Oiling Procedures
-Main-springs are oiled after cleaning and before they are recoiled.
-Teeth and pinions are never oiled.
-Normally, the dial train of gears, hour wheel, minute wheel and minute wheel post are not oiled. However, oil is used between the center shaft and cannon pinion where slip friction is present in setting the hands.
-All points of friction such as train wheel pivots to bushings are oiled. Verge faces are oiled directly.
-Oil is always used sparingly and should never run all over the plates.
Hope this tip helps.
R/
DAvid
http://antiqueclock.clockstop.com/oil.htm
SOURCE: we have a seth thomas
The clock must be levelled the same as when it was previously set up. In other words, if you didn't check the level of the clock before disassembly and reassembled it and re-levelled it, it may not operate because it might not be the same.
Some clocks have different weights for the clock, chime, and hour strike. Did you mark them and install them in the same location?
My Seth Thomas has a screw to adjust the swing of the pendulum to allow proper escapement on the gear, but you have to be able to determine which way the pendulum needs to swing more to make that adjustment. I may be able to help you with this!
You may need a clock repair service.
Let me know,
Gary
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